St Mark's Square (Piazza San Marco)

Napoleon called it "the drawing room of Europe" – which perhaps says more about the emperor's lodgings than about this magnificent square surrounded by museums and galleries (www.museiciviciveneziani.it) all of which are visitable on a cumulative ticket, and by charming but rather over-priced cafés. Think twice before occupying a table on the square.

The view across the square from its western edge, the basilica glittering at the far end, never fails to take my breath away... even when the view is obstructed by hordes of visitors. On the northern side, the long long Procuratie Vecchie building dates from the early 16th century; on the south, the Procuratie Nuove was built in the 17th. During his short reign, Napoleon joined them on the west with what is still known as the Ala napoleonica – the Napoleonic wing. 

To the left of the basilica as you look at the facade stands the 15th-century Torre dell'Orologio (clock tower): the tour (pre-booking obligatory through www.museiciviciveneziani.it) is marvellous. To the right stands the campanile (bell tower) which can be climbed.

The Museums of St Mark’s Square pass gives access to the Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale), the Museo Correr (history and art), the National Archeological Museum and the city’s historic Marciana library.