Au Caprice des Deux
40 Rue Portail Neuf, St-tropez, 83990
- Recommended for:
- Couples, Mature travellers, Seasoned travellers, Chilling out, Relaxation
Expert review of Au Caprice des Deux
There are many shiny, see-and-be-seen restaurants on the port at St Tropez. Then, just round a couple of corners, you come across Au Caprice des Deux hiding in an old village house on a narrow pedestrian street.
I strongly suggest you walk past the shinies and seek it out. This is a spot where eating and conviviality come joint first, posing and celeb-spotting third and fourth.
Naturally, the restaurant has changed in style since it really was a village house (This is St Tropez, remember; oil-cloth floral table linen won’t wash.)
Clutter has been stripped out in favour of mirrors, wood and light. But the three dining rooms remain somewhat cosy – sufficiently so for one to feel at ease rather than on display. Space within is tight, and the terrace in the street outside is not one for very expansive gestures (otherwise, you’ll knock out a passing pedestrian), but this is part of the charm.
As is the food, which throws its net not only towards the Med but across the whole of the south of France (including the South-West, for foie gras fans) and beyond. And it does so with a splendid dose of inventiveness from chef Stéphane Avelin.
From a Provençal base, the menu ranges pretty wide, taking in (as mentioned) foie gras and Spain’s pata negra ham but also spicy beef salad and an excellent snail gratin with garlic butter. (Go on – try it. Put squidgy black things out of your mind and you’ll love it.)
The best-end lamb chops in thyme bring diners back to Provence, in the best possible taste.
It’s not certain, though, that any of these dishes will be on the menu when you visit. Choices change often and according to season – and chef Avelin is too imaginative to stick with the same things for long.
As the French now say: “Chic et cosy.” I can’t think of any way of improving on that.
Friendly and attentive, without intrusiveness.
On a pedestrian side-street equidistant between the port and the Place des Lices.
Three course menu €59.
More information on Au Caprice des Deux:
- Price guide:
- French, Mediterranean, Modern
- 40 Rue Portail Neuf, St-tropez, 83990
- +33 494 977678
- Opening times:
- Shut January, and Wednesdays in low season. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm.
- Accepts Credit Cards:
- Essential at peak times