Sforno

Price guide: Mid-range

Via Statilio Ottato 110/116, Rome, 00175

Price guide: Mid-range

Sforno

By Lee Marshall, your Rome expert

I write for Conde Nast Traveller, .... Read more
#10 of 40
expert-rated restaurants in Rome
Expert overall rating:4.6 out of 5
Food and drink:
4.8
4.8
Ambience:
4.4
4.4
Service:
4.5
4.5
Location:
4
4.0
Value for money:
4.8
4.8
Recommended for:
Backpackers / Students, Families with teenagers, First-time travellers, Seasoned travellers, Relaxation

Expert review of Sforno

It’s worth trekking out to the ‘burbs to sample Rome’s best pizza.

This gourmet pizzeria is miles away from the centre, in a residential street behind the historic film studios of Cinecittà. But it’s well worth the journey. The world of Italian pizza was shaken up in the 1990s by pizzaiolis who began experimenting with adventurous toppings, new flour mixes, and a low-temperature leavening process which involved leaving the rising dough in the fridge overnight. Stefano Callegari is one of the Roman pioneers of this new school. The pizzas he makes are neither Roman (flat and crunchy) nor Neapolitan (with a puffy, high-rise rim), though in appearance they’re closer to the latter. The important thing is that they taste great. Note that booking is essential, and they'll ask you to choose between the 8.15pm or the 10pm sitting.

Food and drink: 

As well as classic toppings like capricciosa and quattro formagi, Sforno offers some real gourmet options like the Greenwich – mozzarella, stilton and reduced Port sauce – or the parmigiana, which takes the classic ‘melanzane alla parmigiana’ recipe (aubergines and tomatoes baked with parmesan) and adapts it to a pizza. In addition, there’s a bigger than usual selection of the kind of entrées that Roman pizzerias traditionally lay on – bruschettas (including a ‘Greek salad’ version) and fried finger-food like potato croquettes or filetti di baccalà (cod in batter) – all done in light versions using the very best ingredients and olive oil. Daily specials are listed on a blackboard. The wine list would be the envy of many upmarket restaurants, and there’s also a good selection of artisanal Italian and European beers.

Ambience: 

Once past the contemporary shopfront, it’s fairly traditional inside, with terracotta floor tiles and green checked tablecloths.

Service: 

Friendly and dependable.

Location: 

Though it’s way out on the south-eastern edge of Rome, the restaurant is fairly easy to reach as it’s near the end of the A metro line: take it in the direction of Anagnina and get off at the Subaugusta stop. Walk past the entrance to the Cinecittà studios; Via Statilio Ottato is the second on the right.

Price advice: 

A gourmet starter, a pizza and a speciality beer will set you back around 20 euros a head.

Other useful branches: 

If you don't want to trek out to the Tuscolana district, the people behind Sforno recently opened a takeaway pizza outlet called 00100 in central Testaccio with the same gourmet approach. It's at Via Giovanni Branca 88, and is open daily from noon to 11pm. See www.00100pizza.com for details.

More information on Sforno:

Price guide:
Mid-range
Type:
Pizzeria
Food:
Pizza
Address:
Via Statilio Ottato 110/116, Rome, 00175
Telephone:
06 71546118
Website:
http://www.sforno.it
Serves:
Dinner
Opening times:
Mon-Sat 8-11.30pm.
Accepts Credit Cards:
Yes
Reservations:
Always essential

Have you been to Sforno? Would you recommended it?