Vicolo del Cinque 58, Rome, 00153
- Recommended for:
- Couples, First-time travellers, Foodies, Honeymooners, Seasoned travellers, Relaxation, Trendiness
Expert review of Glass Hostaria
Nine times out of 10, when I’m looking for somewhere to eat in Rome, I want it to be good and reasonably cheap. But for that tenth time – when I want it to be really good and don’t mind splashing out, Glass is pretty high on my list of options – certainly up there in the top five. The first time I ate here I thought this Trastevere newcomer was too pretentious for words with its post-industrial design, look-at-me waitstaff and wacky fusion cooking. But the management changed, the service improved, the food got less showy and more serious, and two subsequent visits – the most recent in June 2010 – have turned me into a fan.
I’ll list just two of the dishes I had on my last visit so you get an idea of how elaborate Cristina Bowerman’s cooking is: Felicetti spaghetti (a highly regarded brand from northern Italy) with cream of roast peppers, slices of bottarga (grey mullet roe), goat rennet and frigitelle (a very Roman variety of green pepper – sweet rather than hot). And white fish (I can’t honestly remember which) grilled in paprika and on a bed of thinly-sliced globe artichokes with Jerusalem artichoke sauce, served with a lemon confit. Elaborate maybe – but good too. And the wine list is a delight, clearly compiled by someone who knows their Verdicchio from their Greco di Tufo.
The décor is striking – especially compared to your average Trastevere trattoria. Rusted Corten walls, incisions in the floor covered with glass, harbouring wine bottles resting on a bed of white pebbles, pendulous copper cylinder lamps. Yes, they got a designer in. If you’ve come to Rome for traditional trattorias and pizzerias, you’ll probably hate it. But as I live here all year round and see enough traditional trattorias and pizzerias, I actually find it quite refreshing, and it’s cheaper than flying to New York.
This has improved considerably since the early days. The waitstaff are still pretty stylish, or maybe just pretty, but they’re also attentive and courteous.
It’s on a corner site in the bustling heart of Trastevere.
Three courses will set you back 65 euros a head just for the food part – to which you should add at least another 20 euros each for wine and service. So count on spending at least 150 euros for two people, based on two courses each and a shared dessert.
More information on Glass Hostaria:
- Price guide:
- Fusion, Italian, Mediterranean
- Vicolo del Cinque 58, Rome, 00153
- 06 5833 5903
- Opening times:
- Tue-Sun 8-11.30pm. Closed Mondays.
- Accepts Credit Cards:
- Always essential
- Free tags / Keywords: