5 rue des Petits-Hôtels, Paris, 75010
- Recommended for:
- Couples, Families with teenagers, Foodies, Chilling out, Design and architecture, Trendiness
Expert review of Playtime
Franco-Swedish couple Jean-Michel Rassinoux and Viveka Sandklof used to have a hot insider address in Bagnolet that even got Parisians going out to the suburbs. Now they've made it a bit easier by taking over an old bistro near Gare du Nord, turning it into a fresh new address with a wonderful design and tempting, gently creative cooking. I adore the affectionate rather than deadpan hommage to the 1950s and 60s of the then-futuristic France of Jacques Tati’s film Playtime. It's seen Eames chairs and black metal lights, right down to the graphics on the menus. Pity it's not open at weekends.
Happily food is not too much like that in Tati's films, although it has some quirky touches. Rather it's a gently fusion take on trad French cuisine menagère, which feels spontaneous and instinctive rather than dogma. For lunch here, we had fish rillettes with wasabi, a butternut squash flan with poached egg and veal stuffed with morteau sausage. At dinner, dishes are slightly more elaborate and there's more choice. The wine list scans France, with some interesting discoveries, such as an inexpensive and surprisingly good red Marcillac from southwest France.
A loving tribute to the 50s and 60s. Quiet and good for a chat at lunchtime, hots up at dinner.
Just a two-man show on our visit: a friendly young bar man, and Viveka tending tables.
In the fast-evolving 10th arrondissement, where train station hinterland between Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est, on a sidestreet just off boulevard Magenta, next to the St-Quentin covered market, meets a growing population of "creatives".
It costs 18-23 euros for two or three courses at lunch; 28-35 euros at dinner, when dishes are slightly more elaborate and there's more choice. Wine starts at 3.50 euros a glass.
More information on Playtime:
- Price guide:
- Bistro, Restaurant
- French, Fusion
- 5 rue des Petits-Hôtels, Paris, 75010
- 01 44 79 03 98
- Lunch, Dinner
- Opening times:
- Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, 7.30pm-11pm.
- Accepts Credit Cards: