Le Relais du Comptoir

Price guide: Mid-range

9 carrefour de l'Odéon, Paris, 75006

Price guide: Mid-range

Exterior

By Natasha Edwards, your Paris expert

I write for Conde Nast Traveller, Elle .... Read more
#43 of 80
expert-rated restaurants in Paris
Expert overall rating:4.4 out of 5
Food and drink:
4.4
4.4
Ambience:
4.4
4.4
Service:
4.2
4.2
Location:
4.8
4.8
Value for money:
4.2
4.2
Recommended for:
Couples, Culture vultures, Foodies, Seasoned travellers, People watching, Shopping, Special occasions

Expert review of Le Relais du Comptoir

St-Germain bistronomy - if you can get a table.

Chef Yves Camdeborde was a pioneer in the bistronomique trend and the return to terroir at his old bistro La Régalade but I hesitated about including this place, because le Comptoir du Relais poses one of the conundrums of the most successful bistros in Paris at the moment: the near impossibility of getting a table. Happily, the Relais is really two restaurants in one: the evening restaurant where you may have to reserve as much as five months ahead (it's apparently slightly easier for those staying at Camdeborde's adjoining hotel, the Relais de l'Odéon) to try the daily changing no-choice dinner feast and the casual, no reservations café bistro that serves all day, where you may still have to queue for a table at rush-hour lunchtimes but have a chance of trying the Camdeborde style at off peak hours.

Food and drink: 

Try the tender braised beef's cheeks – a Camdeborde trademark – or snack on a plate of charcuterie made by his brother in the Béarn. For weekday dinners it's more elaborate creations.

Ambience: 

Casual chic St-Germain bistro, meaning the look is traditional and rustic – plain wooden tables, zinc bar by the entrance, Art Deco mouldings – and the crowd is an undeniably St-Germain mix of writers, media folk, ladies who shop, passing tourists and international foodie pilgrims.

Service: 

Speedy and experienced. During the day, Camdeborde himself may be behind the bar.

Location: 

In on the action St-Germain location.

Price advice: 

In the daytime count around 25 euros, a five course dinner is around 40 euros.

Other useful branches: 

The Avant-Comptoir next door does gourmet sandwiches and crêpes.

More information on Le Relais du Comptoir:

Price guide:
Mid-range
Type:
Bistro, Café, Restaurant
Food:
French
Address:
9 carrefour de l'Odéon, Paris, 75006
Telephone:
01 43 29 12 05
Website:
http://www.hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com
Serves:
Lunch, Dinner
Opening times:
Mon-Fri noon-6pm, Sat & Sun noon-11pm, no reservations; dinner Mon-Fri 8pm reservation only.
Accepts Credit Cards:
Yes
Reservations:
Essential at peak times

Have you been to Le Relais du Comptoir? Would you recommended it?