Le Châteaubriand

The five course no-choice menu changes all the time. Not every dish works, and as with anywhere with a regularly changing no-choice menu, there's a certain element of chance as to what you get on the night, but in my opinion this is some of the most adventurous food in Paris. Brilliantly crafted preparations, perhaps beetroot foam, a glass of oyster froth to drink through a straw, tuna encased in a box of raw carrot, chocolate with red pepper puree, show Aizpartarte's intuitive mix of flair and finesse, and daring combinations of textures and flavours. He is self taught and a globetrotter and his cuisine has a sense of freedom you don't always find among classically trained chefs. The wine list is interesting, too, with mainly natural wines (unfiltered, no sulphates, etc) from small producers.