Le Buisson Ardent

The menu changes with the seasons but is an appealing mix of hearty traditional dishes and modern ideas, regional produce with Mediterranean touches – perhaps, calf's liver accompanied by swiss chard with black olives, a mackerel tagine, a tabouleh and smoked salmon starter. The soups are often particularly good, though I've occasionally found the seasoning a little awry. The lunch menu usually contains a meat and a fish choice – I recently had an excellent paupiette de porc (roast stuffed pork) with long baked veg and tagliatelle, while my daughter had hake. Desserts go a little way out of the ordinary – last time a quince roasted with chestnut honey (good, though very sweet) and gingerbread, and the bread is all made in-house. There is a short but well-chosen wine list – try the white St-Péray from the Rhône valley if it's available.