La Table du Lancaster
Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri, Paris, 75008
- Recommended for:
- Business travellers, Couples, Foodies, Honeymooners, Seasoned travellers, Romance, Special occasions
Expert review of La Table du Lancaster
Michel Troisgros's Paris offshoot allows you to experience a Parisian take of the famous Troisgros style without a trip to deepest Roanne. His wonderfully inventive cuisine is arranged by taste sensations: Zesty, Piquant, Sharp & Bright, Green and Sour (with indications as to which are more suitable as starters or main courses) and Sweet (the desserts). This is some of the most astonishing food in Paris, a cuisine that is light and modern, with many Asian influences, although it is far too complex and individualistic to describe it simply as "fusion". Curiously, you hear much less about this place than when it opened in 2005, but if anything on a recent visit I found it better than ever, with young chef Julien Roucheteau in the kitchen since 2009, working in tandem with Troisgros, and a phenomenal mix of flavours and textures.
Each meticulously prepared dish is like a work of art and each comes in its appropriate style of plate. It's hard to choose from numerous intriguing choices, and even the more classic sounding dishes have some unexpected element, such as foie gras with hibiscus. On my last visit, tiny crunchy sardine sandwich as an appetiser, "mezzaluna" (half moons) of thin, crisp wafers of celeriac folded like a ravioli, with dollop of real caviar on top, sitting in a light consomme broth, poached cod on Japanese rice, and a masterful dessert of tiny mango dim sum, like mango bonbons with creamy interior in a clear pink rhubarb juice.
The classic, comfortable dining room in the very swish Hôtel Lancaster is very soothing, with deep sofas and plush armchairs. There are tables in the Japanese-style courtyard garden in summer as well. Busy at lunch with French foodies and leisurely international business rendez-vous, it's also perfect for a romantic treat.
Attentive yet discreet, perhaps a little too - it's useful to have some advice in choosing from the menu.
Inside Hôtel Lancaster on a side street just off the Champs-Elysées.
Special occasion stuff: around 110 euros à la carte, or let the chef choose four courses 115 euros, seven courses 145 euros; Sunday "jour de fête" lunch 65 euros. Extravagant but worth it.
More information on La Table du Lancaster:
- Price guide:
- French, Fusion, Modern
- Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri, Paris, 75008
- 01 40 76 40 18
- Lunch, Dinner
- Accepts Credit Cards:
- Always essential
- Free tags / Keywords:
- Al fresco, Troisgros