Hôtel du Nord

Price guide: Mid-range

102 quai de Jemmapes, Paris, 75010

Price guide: Mid-range

Hôtel du Nord, Paris

By Natasha Edwards, your Paris expert

I write for Conde Nast Traveller, Elle .... Read more
#52 of 80
expert-rated restaurants in Paris
Expert overall rating:4.4 out of 5
Food and drink:
4.4
4.4
Ambience:
4.6
4.6
Service:
4.2
4.2
Location:
4
4.0
Value for money:
3.5
3.5
Recommended for:
Couples, Families with younger children, First-time travellers, Honeymooners, Seasoned travellers, History, Relaxation, Romance, Sightseeing, Trendiness

Expert review of Hôtel du Nord

Casual canal-side bistro chic at the home of a film legend.

The legendary canalside hotel of Marcel Carné's 1938 movie – actually shot in a studio – is now a satisfying place to eat, beautifully refurbished in a sort of hommage to black and white films. Yes, it's filmset perfect but it's not rose-tinted nostalgia, rather, an afficianado's taste, seen in the white metro tile walls, Art Deco bar, film set lights and the eclectic array of framed photo portraits on the walls.

Food and drink: 

Hardly innovative but good satisfying French cooking with a seasonal twist. On a recent visit our main course of a succulent veal chop with tagliatelle and oyster mushroom sauce was satisfying if lacking in vegetable accompaniment, a guinea fowl parmentier was juicy though slightly underseasoned – while we saw neighbours tucking into a pile of lamb chops and Black Angus beef. There are fish options too, such as mullet with aniseed, as well as a vegetarian risotto. Desserts revisit old faves: rice pudding with a great dollop of confiture du vieux garçon (a sticky conserve of dried fruits and almonds), a "deconstructed carambar cheesecake", actually a verrine of fromage frais with thick caramel topping only for the extremely sweet-toothed, and a créme brûlée delicately flavoured with lemongrass. It's also a bar, where you can come for a drink all day long, or cocktail in the evening.

Ambience: 

Trendy yet adult: at the more stylish end of the Canal Saint-Martin spectrum. Particularly pleasant for Sunday lunch, when the quays are closed to vehicles and the bistro fills with eclectic arty types, the occasional tourist, and families with pushchairs in tow.

Service: 

Casual yet efficient, friendly waitresses.

Location: 

Canal-side setting in the building that was epitomised in Carné's film Hôtel du Nord.

Price advice: 

Main courses mostly in the 16 to 20 euro range, with a few pricier items. Allow around 35 euros for three courses.

Tables to book: 

I prefer the front section, although there is also the raised "library" at the rear, and a few tables outside in summer.

More information on Hôtel du Nord:

Price guide:
Mid-range
Type:
Bar, Bistro, Restaurant
Food:
French, Traditional, Vegetarian
Address:
102 quai de Jemmapes, Paris, 75010
Telephone:
01 40 40 78 78
Website:
http://www.hoteldunord.org
Serves:
Lunch, Dinner
Opening times:
Daily restaurant noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight; bar 9am-1am approx (closing time can vary).
Accepts Credit Cards:
Yes
Reservations:
Not necessary
Free tags / Keywords:
film

Have you been to Hôtel du Nord? Would you recommended it?