BistroY Les Papilles

The idea here is a very generous no-choice retour du marché dinner menu, centred around the "marmite", a long-simmered casserole of the day, which you serve yourself from the dish at table. You have to put your faith in whatever the chef has concocted for the day, but I've been here several times and it's always good, perhaps chicken with peppers or lamb with spring vegetables. The starter is generally an excellent seasonal soup, while dessert may be clementine panacotta or refreshing fruits in vermouth jelly. At lunch, there's a simpler array of salads and imaginative open-topped tartine sandwiches (try the tartine basquaise with chicken, aubergine and peppers), with an emphasis on excellent French regional charcuterie. You choose your own wine from the shelves for a modest 7 euro corkage fee, which allows you some good wine discoveries for very reasonable prices.