22 Rue de France, Nice, 06000
- Recommended for:
- Business travellers, Foodies, Special occasions
Expert review of Keisuke Matsushima
Young Mr Matsushima (he’s only 32 now) arrived in France at the turn of the century to learn French cuisine. Now he’s showing the locals how to do it, but with an oriental twirl of the chopsticks. His versions of Provençal lamb or sea-bass (baked with mushrooms, squid and broccoli) have helped bag the place a Michelin star.
‘Japanice’ means what it says – the best of Provençal (and, indeed, other French) produce worked with Nippon finesse and sensitivity. Fish dishes are particularly successful. The carpaccio of sea-bream, the roast cod with calamars or with taboulé, quinoa, a cucumber salad and teriyaki sauce ... well, they’ll have you bowing respectfully while simultaneously singing the Marseillaise. (Try it: it’s surprisingly difficult to do well.)
There’s inventiveness in the presentation, and a cracking wine list. Look out for regional Provençal wines from the Château de Pibarnon and Domaine de Trevallon.
As you’d expect, the restaurant is stripped-back and zen – all greys, creams, light browns and clean geometrical lines. Calm enough surroundings, then, for slim and well-dressed local professionals, or tourists pushing out le bateau after too much pizza.
Subtle, smiling and professional.
Just off the main pedestrian area of Nice centre, a block or two from the sea.
There’s a belting lunch-time deal of two courses for 18.80 euros. In a Michelin one-star, that’s a steal. Three course menus at both lunch and dinner start from 36.50 euros, which is also more than reasonable.
More information on Keisuke Matsushima:
- Price guide:
- Fusion, Japanese, Mediterranean, Modern
- 22 Rue de France, Nice, 06000
- 0493 822606
- Lunch, Dinner
- Opening times:
- 12-2pm, 7.30pm-10pm. Shut Sat. Lunch, Sun & Mon all day.
- Accepts Credit Cards:
- Essential at peak times