Calata Porta di Massa, Naples
- Recommended for:
- Backpackers / Students, Couples, Foodies, Seasoned travellers, Singles, No fuss, People watching
Best for Cheap eats - Expert review of Piccolo Ristoro
This place is not easy to find - you're looking for a tiny little restaurant with a faded green and white awning down on Naples' sprawling port, after all - but you'll be glad when you do. There are only eight tables and every lunchtime they'll be full. You can't book so you'd better just make sure you arrive as close to 1pm as you can.
Well it's seafood of course. There's no menu .The chef's wife comes out to tell you what's on - one or two starters and several fish dishes - and you just pick a couple. They're all good. We went for the spaghetti alle vongole (clams), which was fabulous; it looks like such a simple dish but if you've ever tried to make it you'll discover that it's easy to mess up and very hard to get as good as this. We followed it up with a shared plate of frittura mista (fried squid, prawns, assorted fish) having seen our neighbours tucking into some with relish (literally, it comes with a tub of chilli flakes for those who like their fish with a bit of a kick). With a quarto of white wine to go with, this was a very good lunch indeed.
Small it may be, and shack-like from the outside, but it's clean and buzzy. Our neighbours on one side (the ones with the mixed plate) were a couple of cheery, burly Sicilian truck drivers while on the other, a rather distinguished looking chap with a handlebar moustache wearing a tweed jacket and cord trousers, quietly made his way through three courses scarcely raising his head from the plate.
It's brisk, but friendly and efficient.
I was convinced I'd made a wrong turn on my first visit here but, essentially, once you're on the port, keep walking straight towards Molo Pisacane and once you're in the area, just ask for 'Piccolo Ristoro'. You never know, one of the dockers might be heading there himself…
The cheapest meal I had in Naples: 15 euros per person for two primi, a shared secondi, wine and bread.
More information on Piccolo Ristoro:
- Price guide:
- Italian, Seafood
- Calata Porta di Massa, Naples
- Opening times:
- Tue-Sat noon-4pm. Closed Sundays.
- Accepts Credit Cards:
- Not possible