Borgo Marinaro 10-11, Naples, 80132
- Recommended for:
- Business travellers, Couples, Families with teenagers, Foodies, Honeymooners, Great views / scenery, People watching, Special occasions
Expert review of La Bersagliera
This is another Italian institution, one which over its long history has seen everyone from Salvador Dalí to Jack Lemmon cross its portals. Its location couldn’t be better - right on the marina - and on a hot sunny day don’t be surprised if some young scugnizzi (street kids) come leaping from the roof above to cool off in the water. So that’s the entertainment. Then there’s the food...
Everything from the sea is on the menu here (and more, but who needs more?) and though there are many things that tempt, when they’re in season (look for veraci, meaning local and in season) it has to be the spaghetti alle vongole (clams) for me. But there's seafood in every form: salads, risottos, grilled or with pasta. The wine list is long, but for a simple fish lunch there are reasonable light whites that enable you to come out satsified but not destitute. While the menu is mainly fish there is the odd (though apparently very good) pizza as well as some meat dishes.
The location is lovely, the tablecloths are linen and the walls are lined with sepia photos of former diners, including Naples’ own Edoardo Filippo. More recent diners have included Pavarotti and Elizabeth Taylor (who apparently used to order up to her room when she was staying at the Hotel Excelsior Naples). Needless to say it’s almost always packed but this is an informal place and the atmosphere is usually very convivial. That said, certain traditions remain and it’s not unusual at the end of the meal for the women to wander off for a postprandial stroll while the men sit around conspiratorially drinking grappa and wishing they could still smoke (if it’s quiet enough on the terrace area, and unlikely to disturb others, they still can).
They’ve been doing this since 1919 (though the staff may have changed), so the service is efficient and the staff are friendly without overdoing it.
It's right on the marina, opposite the Castell dell'Ovo.
The menu takes you from small pasta dishes and pizzas all the way through to some very special ‘house’ specials, such as orata (gilthead bream) baked in a salt crust. Expect to pay around 50 euros a head without drinks or service for three normal courses, but you could easily eat for 20 euros if you're happy with a small plate and a glass of vino.
The terrace is delightful if it’s a warm day and there’s a light breeze to be had. If not, sit by the window inside.
More information on La Bersagliera:
- Price guide:
- Italian, Seafood
- Borgo Marinaro 10-11, Naples, 80132
- 081 764 6016
- Lunch, Dinner
- Opening times:
- Wed-Mon noon-3.30pm, 7.30pm-midnight. Closed Tuesdays and one week in January.
- Accepts Credit Cards:
- Essential at peak times