Restaurant Louis XV

Price guide: Expensive

Hotel de Paris, Place du Casino, Monte Carlo, 98000

Price guide: Expensive

Restaurant Louis XV

By Anthony Peregrine, your Monaco expert

I write for The Daily Telegraph, The .... Read more
#1 of 7
expert-rated restaurants in Monaco
Expert overall rating:4.7 out of 5
Food and drink:
4.8
4.8
Ambience:
4.6
4.6
Service:
4.7
4.7
Location:
4.6
4.6
Value for money:
4.4
4.4
Recommended for:
Foodies, Romance, Special occasions

Best for Gourmets - Expert review of Restaurant Louis XV

Pomp and circumstance and the grandest table on the Riviera.

The Louis XV is not so much a Michelin three-star restaurant as a distillation of the grandest bits of Monte Carlo’s self-image. It’s a setting of Versailles-scale magnificence – sparkling white and gold, gilt mirrors, hanging fabrics, busts, portraits, statuary and flower arrangements as high as a bus – for the full pomp and circumstance of the highest of Mediterranean haute cuisine.

In these spheres, people argue about food as they do about Renaissance art. The texture of a young pigeon breast becomes a matter of international debate.

Some reckon that Alain Ducasse – who started his domination of French cooking right here – has been surpassed. I don’t, but I’m biased: I’ve have met, and admire, the man. To forge your own opinion, you’ll need regal amounts of cash (plus a jacket and tie, if you’re a man). If you have to think about the price, you may be in the wrong place. If you don’t, well, bon appétit.
 

Food and drink: 

In such surroundings, you would expect grand cuisine stuck in the past. You would be wrong. What you get is southern French cooking, with Italian and slight Asian influences, worked up in a contemporary manner which astonishes the senses but doesn’t betray its origins. No-one in Provence ever created a dish of sea-bass with squid and marjoram ravioli in an artichoke stock.

But, for all its fanciness, the dish remains Provençal at base. That is the great achievement of Ducasse and his main man in Monaco, Franck Cerutti. They’re equally dextrous with fish, meat and vegetables – and the desserts are to sigh for.
 

Ambience: 

Formal (jacket and tie, or decent frock for Madame). The sumptuousness of the surroundings and flotilla of staff might intimidate the uninitiated. Don’t allow them to. These people may have served every famous person on the planet – but they still need you more than you need them. Conduct yourselves as if you were nobility (which, if you can afford these prices, you very well might be) and this was your court.

Service: 

Perfect.

Location: 

Within the Hotel de Paris overlooking the Casino Square - in other words, at the very heart of Monte-Carlo, amid the richest few square yards in Europe.

Price advice: 

Oh dear. Please don’t read on if you’re of a nervous disposition. The lunch – two course, cheese, dessert, wine and coffee – works out at around 142 euros. The gourmet dinner menu is 286 euros (that’s per person, not for the whole restaurant). Go à la carte and you're into telephone numbers.

More information on Restaurant Louis XV:

Price guide:
Expensive
Type:
Restaurant
Food:
French, Fusion, Mediterranean, Modern
Address:
Hotel de Paris, Place du Casino, Monte Carlo, 98000
Telephone:
+377 98 06 88 64
Website:
http://www.hoteldeparismontecarlo.com
Serves:
Lunch, Dinner
Opening times:
Thu-Mon, 12.15-1.45pm, 8pm-9.45pm. Shut Tue & Wed (except Wed evenings in high summer). Shut Nov 30-Dec 30, Feb 22-Mar 9.
Accepts Credit Cards:
Yes
Reservations:
Always essential
Free tags / Keywords:
Wine

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