Joël Robuchon Monte Carlo

Price guide: Expensive

Métropole Hotel, 4 Ave de la Madone, Monte Carlo, 98000

Price guide: Expensive

Joël Robuchon Monte Carlo

By Anthony Peregrine, your Monaco expert

I write for The Daily Telegraph, The .... Read more
#3 of 7
expert-rated restaurants in Monaco
Expert overall rating:4.6 out of 5
Food and drink:
4.6
4.6
Ambience:
4.6
4.6
Service:
4.8
4.8
Location:
4.5
4.5
Value for money:
4.6
4.6
Recommended for:
Foodies, Romance, Special occasions

Expert review of Joël Robuchon Monte Carlo

The first Joël of French catering.

Joël Robuchon is up there with Alain Ducasse in the top five of France’s best (or, at least, best-known) chefs. His is a perhaps more sober style. His Michelin two-star Monaco base is within the Métropole Hotel and shares with it a retro-modern town-house style.

In truth, the restaurant is not unlike the brighter sort of London club – velvety armchairs, wood-panelling and drapes.

If it lacks the mighty splendour of Ducasse’s Louis XV restaurant (see elsewhere in ‘Monaco restaurants’), it is a more relaxing spot in which to eat. You’ll still want to be on best behaviour, mind.

Cooking is modern French of the finest order, with a marked preference for Mediterranean fare, and all worked through the prodigious Robuchon imagination. This doesn’t eschew simplicity – for instance, lamb cutlets with thyme – but does get everything just right.

Japan

Naturally, prices are ambitious … except at lunch. This can be had, express-style, for 29 euros. You get starter, a main course like beef julienne, and dessert, all on the same tray – but with top-class attention and surroundings. I don’t know any other Michelin two-star restaurant where you can lunch so cheaply. In Monaco, it’s simply astounding.

Being a globe-trotter, Robuchon is a star world-wide – and notably in Japan. No surprise, then, that he has now opened a Japanese restaurant – Yoshi – also at the Métropole. It’s an attractively stripped-back zen composition of bright colours, wood, a sushi bar – and another 29-euro lunch … in, of course, a Bento box. It gained its first Michelin star in 2010’s guide. Full dinner prices leap up to 120 euros.
 

Food and drink: 

The finest southern French food, clearly prepared and presented. Try the lobster en papillotte and tell me you disagree.

Ambience: 

Formal, but not so much so as to be constipated. There’s not much dancing on the tables, but civilised laughter is permitted.

Service: 

Unbeatable. Staff here know your name before you've even mentioned it. It's supernatural.

Location: 

Within the Métropole hotel, just up from the Casino Square.

Price advice: 

As noted above, the express lunch is surprisingly good value, for 29 euros. Variations on this lunchtime theme can also be had for 39, 44 and 62 euros. For dinner, you’re not going to get much change out of 185 euros.

More information on Joël Robuchon Monte Carlo:

Price guide:
Expensive
Type:
Restaurant
Food:
French, Fusion, Mediterranean, Modern
Address:
Métropole Hotel, 4 Ave de la Madone, Monte Carlo, 98000
Telephone:
+377 93 15 15 15
Website:
http://www.metropole.com
Serves:
Lunch, Dinner
Opening times:
Daily, 12.15-2.30pm, 7.15pm-10.30.
Accepts Credit Cards:
Yes
Reservations:
Always essential
Free tags / Keywords:
Michelin star, Wine

Have you been to Joël Robuchon Monte Carlo? Would you recommended it?