Jægersborggade 41, Copenhagen
- Recommended for:
- Couples, Foodies, Honeymooners, Singles, Design and architecture, Live entertainment, Nightlife, Trendiness
Best for Trendiness - Expert review of Restaurant Relæ
If you want a taste of the kind of creativity on offer at the legendary Noma but don’t have the time or cash, try Relæ, run by a young team of former Noma chefs. At about 45 euros for a four-course menu it offers terrific value and experimental excitement that sometimes works spectacularly but which is also occasionally baffling. Expect exciting, experimental food prepared with obsession and passion in a warm, welcoming setting out in a slightly edgy corner of the city.
Although many of the techniques and parings of ingredients are innovative and even odd, the overall touch and approach to the food is light, pared down and the dishes are amazingly fresh and healthy. Always interesting and exciting, if not always wholly successful. The wine parings I tried were well chosen and the selection is very inside track.
Every course I tried here was interetsting and some were superb as in the brine poached mackerel with pureed lemon peel, and thinly sliced cauliflower. The careful brine poaching kept the mackerel's strong flavour but gave it an amazing texture, almost like prime fatty tuna. The onion course, steamed and caramelised with tapioca and elderberry jus was simply odd. The dessert of milky ice-cream and a crunchy topping was wonderfully fresh and healthy.
I love the ordered, friendly approach the young team take here. I sat overlooking the kitchen ranges but the tables and the rest of the space here is calm and cosy. Having the cutlery and napkins in little drawers at each table is a nice touch.
I was made to feel really welcome from the start. The chefs take the food to your table, and explain what you're eating and how it was prepared. The sommelier was knowledgable and able to suggest good parings beyond the recommended ones. It's clear food genuinely is a passion here but the atmosphere is not precious or stuck up. Perhaps the only thing that might put some people off is the interest the kitchen has in how you enjoyed the food, but I enjoyed chatting to the guys here about it.
Don't be alarmed but do be aware that this place is a way out of the centre in Nørrebro on a somewhat edgy street where you do see guys openly dealing drugs, which is a bit of an eye opener for such a seemingly straight-laced city. Don't let it put you off though and get a taxi here if you're worried. It's worth the trip.
Set menus for about 45 euros offer great value and a wonderful taste of cutting edge modern Nordic food for those who couldn't get into Noma.
The bar stool chairs overlooking the kitchen are fun if you take an interest in seeing the food being put together or if you're dining alone.
More information on Restaurant Relæ:
- Price guide:
- Jægersborggade 41, Copenhagen
- 3696 6609
- Opening times:
- Wed-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Closed Sun-Tue.
- Accepts Credit Cards: