Athiri

Price guide: Expensive

Plateon 15, Keramikos, Athens, 10435

Price guide: Expensive

Exterior

By Rachel Howard, your Athens expert

I write for Conde Nast Traveller, .... Read more
#17 of 25
expert-rated restaurants in Athens
Expert overall rating:4.4 out of 5
Food and drink:
4.5
4.5
Ambience:
4.4
4.4
Service:
4.2
4.2
Location:
4.4
4.4
Value for money:
4
4.0
Recommended for:
Business travellers, Couples, Foodies, Honeymooners, People watching, Romance

Expert review of Athiri

Chic modern Greek in grungy-cool Keramikos.

Young chef Alexandros Kardasis (a protégé of Christoforos Peskias – see  P Box) has won stacks of awards since opening this unpretentious but upmarket restaurant in 2007. The short menu – featuring unconventional dishes like vine leaves stuffed with bulgar, lemongrass and mint and slow-roast lamb with lemon tagliatelle – changes every few months. The secret courtyard is a huge part of the appeal.

Food and drink: 

Several dishes feature Greek products: Cretan olive oil, capers from Santorini, saffron from Kozani. Appetisers are generally better than mains, so I like to order several starters to share, along with a basket of fantastic homemade breads. Standout starters include grilled squid with lemon oil and mixed vegetables in a beetroot and lemon cream sauce. Mains balance hearty meat dishes (mostly cooked sous-vide) and simply cooked fish. Desserts, courtesy of deft pastry chef Theodore Moysides, are not to be missed.  The exclusively Greek wine list (apart from a couple of South African options) is an excellent sampler of regional varieties.

Recommended dishes: 

The marinated duck leg with pear puree is typical of unusual pairings of ingredients that work surprisingly well. The signature dessert – a trio of crème brulee (Greek coffee, orange and cardamom, and caramel) – is sublime.

Ambience: 

Buzzing and informal. The modern décor is unfussy. The secluded, softly lit garden is a blissful oasis on baking summer nights. The slightly soulless interior can feel a bit cramped, especially at weekends.

Service: 

Although the place seems to be perennially understaffed, service is competent, cheerful and unhurried. Waiters are happy to explain any unfamiliar ingredients.

Location: 

Athiri helped put the edgy neighbourhood of Keramikos on the culinary map in 2007. A daring move – the area once known for its cheap bordellos and low-life residents (both of which still exist in abundance) has since become synonymous with quirkily cool bars and restaurants.

Price advice: 

€40-50 a head.

Tables to book: 

Anywhere as long as it's outside in the glorious overgrown garden. There's a separate smoking room.

More information on Athiri:

Price guide:
Expensive
Type:
Restaurant
Food:
Greek, Mediterranean
Address:
Plateon 15, Keramikos, Athens, 10435
Telephone:
+30 210 346 2983
Website:
http://www.athirirestaurant.gr
Serves:
Dinner
Opening times:
8pm-1.30am daily. Also open for Sunday lunch. Closed Mon.
Accepts Credit Cards:
Yes
Reservations:
Suggested
Free tags / Keywords:
award-winning, Garden, Gourmet, dinner a deux

Have you been to Athiri? Would you recommended it?