Venice

Getting to the heart of Venice

But if what you’re expecting to find is a museum-city – and one that’s sinking fast – think again. It’s not only holding its head well above water: hidden among the architectural gems and artistic treasures is a vibrant town, with excellent eateries, a great bar scene and a surfeit of performing arts action (see my Venice nightlife page for more information). ‘Hidden’, however, is the operative word here. To get to the heart of the place, you’ll need a helping hand (see my Venice insider tips page for some insider advice).

Looked at objectively, this was a ridiculous spot to found a city. But the geographical advantages of this self-contained Adriatic outpost, combined with the wily go-getting character of the earliest settlers, transformed a huddle of huts on stilts into the marvel we see today. Some 1,000 years as an independent republic, dominating eastern Mediterranean trade routes, gave La Serenissima the wherewithal to deck herself out in the finest of artistic riches. No other two square miles on the planet boasts such a wondrous concentration.

An awe-inspiring city

The be-all and end-all of the diminutive Most Serene Republic was self-glorification. Anyone who clapped eyes on the place had to be subdued with a sense of awe. Still today this adornment will amaze you. You could not set foot in a single gallery or church during your visit and you’d still get a taste of the artistic essence of Venice. It’s in the unexplained chunks of carved marble embedded in walls, the intricate well-heads and the elaborate door and window frames; it’s in the ornate archways leading into forlornly atmospheric courtyards, the glimpses through high gates of formal gardens reverting to jungle, and the glorious colours of the peeling buildings which reflect so perfectly in the waters of narrow canals – colours which, if and when you do venture into some art repository, you’ll find echoed faithfully in the rich hues of paintings by Venetian maestri such as Titian and Tintoretto.

21st-century Venice

Decked in her historic finery, inside and out, Venice is timeless. But make the effort to dig a little deeper and you’ll find that it’s not locked in a timewarp. Many visitors shuttle between St Mark’s and the Rialto and feel that they’ve ‘done’ the lagoon city. They don’t know what they’re missing. If discovering far-flung little-visited delights is one part of the city’s charm, observing its unique way of dealing with the challenges of the 21st century is another.

There are big-name contemporary architects at work here – from Spain’s Santiago Calatrava and his new Ponte della Costituzione bridge, to Britain’s David Chipperfield and his extension to the cemetery island of San Michele. But there are also Venetians going about their business, living their very modern lives in this museum-like city. Join the young professionals for aperitivi of an evening in the bars at the north-western foot of the Rialto. Experience Venice student-style in the university district towards Santa Marta in the far west of the island. Or simply join the city’s voluble housewives stocking up of a morning in the explosion of noise, action and colour that is the Rialto market.

Whatever corner of this extraordinary city you happen upon, whatever season you pitch up here, the other-worldly beauty of the place is bound to grab you. Go beyond the obvious and the clichés, and the full magic of La Serenissima will be revealed.

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